Sullivan to Potosi - Still all in Missouri

The forecast for today was for rain, starting early but light and continuing all day, getting harder after early afternoon. With that in mind, I tossed and turned all night - as if I could do anything about the weather, got up and out early, hoping to beat the heaviest part of the rain.

The route was more of the same, but added to that was the rain, a constant part of the mix, which thankfully was pretty light until I was about 15 miles from Potosi. The rain, if not falling really hard, is not much of a problem. I have pretty intense front and rear lights so am easily seen.

The biggest problem today is that the entire 35 miles from Sullivan to Potosi was on State Highway 185, a pretty heavily traveled road until well out of town. Even with my rear view mirror on my helmet, knowing those cars and trucks are passing within a foot or two of me makes for an intense ride. Having said that, it is my experience so far that all these drivers out here in the heartland are really, really courteous and careful. They do, when they can, give me lots of room as they move out of their lane to pass me. So thank you Missouri drivers.

Just a couple of pictures today because I continue to find that pictures cannot do justice to the elements I face on a daily basis.



Those of you who have reading this blog know I rescued a turtle from a road several days ago. Well, again today, another turtle crossing a busier road. He does not mind the rain, but would have minded being run over by a truck! Rest easy. Tonight he's home with Ms turtle and all the little turtles.




This quarter-mile long uphill bridge covers this stream.



I wish the congressman for this district represented us in Barrington. We'd have a mile long bridge over the E J & R tracks. Problem solved!

What do you notice about the flag today?



That's right. Besides being very wet, it is not blowing in the wind. Thank God for small favors.



I promise not to do this again, but I thought you ought to see what I face all along the route the past 3 days.



That downhill always leads to this...



That is an uphill. It is a mutha. It is just one of many like it, along with a whole lot of lesser muthas, it makes up my day. Just a couple more days in these Ozarks, and I'm on Mississippi flatlands, for at least a while.

Today was the day to get all the bugs out. In the rain, all those hills, a chain that caught as I shifted gears and a loose bolt on the fender. Instant by the roadside bicycle repair. Once the panic subsides, I find that I really do know how to fix these things.

Can you stand all the excitement? In, out of the rain, showered off and safe for the rest of the day. What will tomorrow bring?

One last thing. I am announcing a contest. The winner - one entry per person through Sunday midnight, gets their choice of either a Heath Bar, a Baby Ruth or an Almond Joy.

Here's the question. What color is the most favorite for owners for pick up trucks in Illinois, Iowa and Missouri? Not SUV's or crossovers. Just pickups. Prize will be awarded when I get back to town. In case of a tie, the decision will be at the sole discretion of the judge.

Finally, thanks to all who have called or emailed along the way to inquire about my safety, my sanity and my current state of being. Roger, Diane, Jack, Megan, Matt, Steve, Dave, Denise, Steve, Ray and Kerry and every morning and evening, Carla.

Special thanks to Renee, always upbeat and always forwarding me some of the greatest jokes I've ever heard/read. Keeps me laughing all the way.

Washington to Sullivan

Nothing much different to report other than what has become a constant on this trip; Hills, hills and more hills! It was a long day, but blessedly the wind was negligable, not only that, there wasn't much of it! It makes all the difference.

I had the presence of mind to take a picture of what I have been describing as the most frequent interruption along the way. Meet Fido, someone's really good and territorially protective farm dog.



He wouldn't "Go home", "Sit", "Come here boy" nor anything else I could think of. Like all these dogs along the way, he just barked and barked until HE decided it was time to quit the game. Patience is a virtue.

When I get home, I have a bone to pick with the Adventure Cycling Association. This ride is called the Great Rivers Ride, South. While I've spent some time along the Mississippi, and crossed the Missouri and quite a few smaller rivers and creeks, I am currently in Potosi, a small town 65 miles south and west of St. Louis. (More about Potosi in my next blog). This ride, now that I've got enough of it under my belt, really ought to be called, "The Great River Ride, Rolling Hills, Ride and Push Your Bike Up and Down, Sometimes In The Rain, Route. I'll take care of that directly with the Association.

Anyway, arrived in Sullivan, about 45 miles, about 4:00 in the afternoon, dog tired but thrilled to have gotten through the day. It continues to amaze where strength comes from when all thought of completing the day is gone. Of course, that is part of what this adventure is all about.

Troy to Washington - Sounds Like A History Lesson

45 Miles scheduled yesterday, but a wrong turn took me about 10 miles out of my way.

The day started out with hail against the window of my motel room with the rain ending about 8:00. A hilly, windy ride through beautiful country back roads, eventually ending up in Washington, Mo.

The roads were narrow, but once out of Troy, not heavily traveled and most with narrow but usable shoulders. A homeowner along the way where I asked for directions gave me an alternate route which not only was paved, (the map was going to take me along about 3 miles of crushed gravel), but fairly flat for a couple of miles. He wanted to show me his motorcycle, which now at his age of 75, with his heart problem, has something like training wheels on the rear of the bike so he doesn't have to worry about trying to hold the bike up when he comes to a stop. We laughed at the idea that we go from training wheels on our bikes when we are young, to training wheels as we get older. He still rides out in the back country all the time even with the bad heart.

I seem to be dwelling on the wind, but here's the thing. With southerly winds blowing in my face most of the day, combined with hill after hill, it sometimes just takes all I have to keep going. The easy thing would be to simply say, "I don't really need this in my life", but I'm in this for better or worse, and maybe this is the time the "worse" part gets over with so the rest of the experience is better. The wind yesterday was the worst of the trip but when I rolled into Washington, it was with a great sense of accomplishment.



Beautiful Flag. Standing straight out from the flagpole. Good news for the flag, bad news for any rider - me, in this case - pedaling against it up and down hills.

Having gotten that out of the way, on the good side of things, the scenery along the route was really spectacular. Creeks winding their way down through green valleys, an occasional ranch with white fences, lots of barnyard dogs to announce my passage and finally, a couple of miles along the Katy trail, then across the Missouri River into Washington. It is impossible for the pictures to really convey the sense of peace and calm, so I won't bother you with picture after picture of pasture or country road. Just know that this world out here exists beyond the ability to describe.

A couple of observations.

Generally, as one climbs a hill, you know you are near the top because there will be a sign posting a speed limit. If the sign indicates there is a turn, or to slow down, you still have a ways to go.

As it gets warmer, the flies are out. Sometimes when I stop, it takes a moment for them to find me, but they do. Sometimes, my speed up a hill is so tedious and slow, they keep up with me! They are small, and don't seem to bite, so it is annoying rather than a problem.

Farm dogs living off small country roads, for the most part, are kept in a dog run or are chained. Once in a while, they are not. I have found that counter-intuitively, when they are not, the best thing to do is immediately stop the bike, look them in the eye, speak with authority and tell them to go home, or at least to speak to them as though I am the owner, not a victim.

Yesterday, a huge dog came running after me, barking and growling. I stopped, he stopped and we had a stand off right in the middle of this narrow country road. As I would get ready to ride, he would advance. If I stopped, he stopped. Finally, he gave up and walked slowly back to his yard, turning occasionally as all these dogs do, to bark and growl just to remind me on whose road I am riding.

Now, the truth is I have a couple of cans of very high octane Mace very handy on my handlebar pack, police strength, which I am told will stop any dog in his tracks and for about 30 minutes cause it lots of discomfort. I am hesitant to use it unless I really feel threatened. So far, no need, although it is always in my hand when dogs are after me.

Today, I go from Washington to Sullivan along "narrow, winding and steep hills". It will be about 42 miles. I will be glad to get this day out of the way. All things being equal, I have two more days after today of really hilly travel before I begin to get out into the flatter land approaching Cape Girardeau.

Just a few photos from yesterday, but they tell the story.



I'll try to remember to slow down.



Pretty much tells the story of the day's ride. Today WILL be better.



The picture does not come close to conveying the beauty of this valley.

Louisiana, MO to Troy, MO

After a down day because of high winds and rain, I left Louisiana yesterday on a glorious morning, headed south and west with the goal, Troy, MO, a distance on my map of just over 50 miles. The route would take me along the Mississippi River for about 10 miles and then in Clarksville, turn south-westerly through Paynesville and New Hope along state routes W and KK, picking up state route 47 and south into Troy.

It was at the same time, the most beautiful part of the ride so far, and by far, the most difficult. The challenge was again the hills and for most of the ride, they were relentless. The topographical indicators on my maps indicate elevations as high as 750', with numerous elevations at 500' and one along the way at 1250'. Now, the country roads do not always go that high, but on several occasions, I think 3, I was higher than anything else around except for microwave transmission towers usually placed on the highest elevation around. Today I only got off the bike twice to walk to the top of the hill! Maybe by the time I finish this journey I will be able to conquer any hill in my way. I hope so.

By way of example, as I remember, the hill where the "Hollywood" sign is placed in Los Angeles is somewhere just in excess of 1000' of elevation and the highest point in Palos Verdes at Crest Rd, I believe is 1200'. The one thing I do not know is what the elevation of the Mississippi River is but in any event, it was a day of up and down, up and down and up and down.

The good news is it was not windy and the really good news is that along the way, the land is beautiful. It is spring out here and everything is in bloom. Most of the fields where grass is being grown have growth 6" to 8" high, the trees are in full in every color of green you can imagine and most of the farms have some sort or another of garden just showing their first spring growth.

Lots of small to middle sized creeks cross under the roads and all are full with the spring run-off from this very wet spring out here. It is, all in all, a beautiful way to experience life on back country roads and small towns through this region.

There are no pictures for this posting, for you would tire of pictures of hills after hills and if there were sound with the pictures, you would hear something like, "You gotta be sh..&%$#*ing me", not another one! Of course, no one was around to hear me, so it helped to express myself and not offend anyone.

My speech to the cows a couple of days ago must have been telegraphed to brothers and sisters along the way, for there were several times when I found gangs of cows crowding the fence lines waiting to hear my take on things. Sorry guys, not today. Too many hills to climb.

Worth noting. More and more I am reminded of the kindness of people to total strangers. I stopped in on a farm to ask directions and not only did Mary get me headed in the right direction, she offered me a cold coke and introduced me to her boss, Bob Ritter, the owner of Sunnyview Gardens and Greenhouse, just north of Troy. If you need a truck load of shrubs or flowers, stop in and see them. The coke was ice cold and the directions got me into town. Thanks guys.

The weather forecast for today is thundershowers late in the day so my goal is to be in Washington, MO, about 45 miles from here through more HILLS by mid-afternoon.

The adventure goes on, people continue to amaze with their kindness, the scenery is, beautiful and peaceful, if not strenuous and thanks to all who call to remind me that I am missed, loved and wished for a continued safe journey.

Matt, your work back in Jamaica in the Peace Corps is greatly admired by all and you are learning much as well as giving much. Dave and Stephanie, welcome home from your honeymoon. It sounds like a great time away before returning home to begin life together.

Hannibal to Louisiana, MO

33 Miles today, much less than I am hoping will be my daily average of 50.

Just some housekeeping information before I leave Hannibal. If you ever go to Hannibal and go to the Mark Twain Coffee Shop for breakfast, make sure you DON'T order the 4 pancake stack for breakfast! I should have asked before doing so, but each pancake is the size of a waffle. 2 would be enough to feed a family and I hated to leave all that food but just way too much to eat.

So with a full stomach I rode south from town, over the bridge and around the turn to face the first of what would be 10 or more of the most challenging hills of the trip.



This is NOT what you want to see with a stomach full of pancakes and no time to have even gotten warmed up for the day. That is a big mutha hill.

It almost broke my resolve, for pedaling up and down those kind of hills is reserved for really young people who emulate Lance Armstrong. I think of my sons Steve and Dave back in Los Angeles who ride these kinds of hills all the time. They are inspirational! With them in mind, I made it though, and all the others, only walking part way on 3 of the worst. Maybe by the time I'm done with this ride I can get up them all, but not this morning. Today though, sore legs, sore legs, sore legs.

It would be a very challenging day because not only were there lots of those kinds of hills, there was almost all day, a strong southerly wind blowing, (I think the precursor of last night and today's very rainy and windy storm), which really puts a damper on pedaling up and down against what seems like an invisible hand pressed against one's forehead. It is discouraging to struggle to the top of one of these hills only to have to pedal DOWNHILL because the wind is so strong.

It would seem that wind might be a constant up here.



Appropriate name for a street on top of one of these hills.
Here's some highlights of the day.

Another "Road Closed" road sign on highway 57, my route for the day and miles from nowhere, which turned out this time to be passable.



Not what you want to see miles from nowhere. Luckily the local sheriff, whose number I had, allowed that there was a way for a bicycle to get through. Thank you Sheriff!I found my way around it!



The reason for all the fuss, and the reason there were no cars on the road today. That drop-off is a vertical fall of about 50 feet. Not what you want to experience on a dark night in your car.

Further along on the deserted highway I was able to give an election speech to a group of cows, promising them that if elected, I would not allow them to be served up in some MacDonald's somewhere. I don't think they thought I had a chance of winning but were willing to listen to my speech.



As you can see, the guy in front whispering something in the ear of his buddy about all politicians being alike...and finally, by the end of the caucus, my audience had shrunk.



Sighted in order, several eagles perched high up on the rock cliffs in trees or soaring above the countryside,(no, I am not roadside kill, so you can go away), a beautiful red fox who watched my pedal by from a safe distance, a turtle trying to get across the road, (if cars on that road, the turtle would be history).



Where I rescued the turtle. I drove by, had second thoughts about him/her/it, turned around and placed it in the grass on the side of the road it was facing. See if you can see him/her/it in the grass along the highway. Also note the flooded fields. The Mississippi River is over there past the tree line. For just a few minutes at this spot, I enjoyed the quietness, the view and thoughts of friends at home.

And finally of the animal nature, passed by several dogs as I was struggling up hill, all of whom let me know they owned the road and I was forewarned of that fact. Counter intuitively, I stopped pedaling and called out to the dogs to "Stop barking, I am a friend." One of them was a hound of some sort, a couple of the lab genre and a couple more just plain old mutts. Once I stopped riding, all the fun seemed to go out of it for them and they walked away slowly, looking over their shoulders once in a while and giving a final bark or two just to keep me honest and disappeared back down the dirt lane.

Highlights of the human kind were Dan the 83 year old farmer out working on Saturday afternoon mowing his expansive front lawn and shoring up a culvert lined with rocks which seemed to have caved in. He was busy bent over piling stones back into place. He didn't have much to say except that "today was not a very good day so far and he hoped tomorrow would be better.

Unique to Dan was his hat. If you remember any old WWII movie where John Wayne or Robert Taylor was flying against the enemy hoard in P 38 fighter aircraft, those same hats they wore were what farmer Dan had on. His was on his head slightly crooked which made the whole conversation a little surreal. I wanted to ask him about it, but he seemed intent on working so I pedaled on.

Down the road a ways was this house looking just like it needed a good Realtor. I gave them the names of my good friends and terrific Realtors, Kerry Franze and Jeanine and Ron Van De Velde, former associates of mine still in the Barrington, IL office of Coldwell Banker. Hope they call guys and no referral fee necessary!



"Quaint Farm House located on large tract of land. Dirt driveway included. 3Br, 1 Ba with air conditioning. Lots of Extra.

This picture speaks for itself. As I entered Louisiana, Mo., an auction which usually is not good news, as in this case, grown children disposing of their parent's home and furnishings after their recent removal to a nursing home.



There are no smiles in this audience and if you can see the look on the face of the little blond girl in the foreground, it pretty well sums up the emotions of the gathered friends and curious onlookers.

Last highlight is the B & B I stayed in overnight. The Eagle's Nest Winery, owned and run by Karen Stoecklley and her artist husband John. What a fabulous little hideaway in Louisiana, MO. If you are reading this within driving distance of this small town, come have a terrific meal, visit their wine shop and have a great dinner and breakfast. (Breakfast included in the price, dinner extra).



Click on this link to visit for yourselves. http://www.theeaglesnest-louisana.com

Finally, checked in at the Eagle's Nest, I rode down to the river on what had become a dark, cold and windy afternoon. No one around but me and as I listened very carefully, I could faintly hear Tina Turner singing "Big Wheel" with all the energy and excitement of this grand River and her rendition of that great song. A perfect ending for a long day.



We've made it this far.

Finally, finally, its Mother's Day. Happy Mother's day to all you moms, step-mothers, grandmothers and godmothers who work so hard to provide so much for your families. Hope flowers, a card and a swell meal are on tap for you today.

It rained hard, and blew harder here last night and today, with wind advisories for this part of Missouri to be in place until the end of Mother's Day tonight. Lots of serious tornado damage south of here a few hundred miles. No way to ride a bike in 25-45 mph wind, so staying over one more night before I set out tomorrow on another very difficult hilly portion of this trip. Not sure when I'll next update this, but I will when I can.

Quincy to Hannibal.

Left Quincy early this morning. Cold, cold and cold! Within 30 minutes, also raining. Arriving in Hannibal, I decided today was a day to rest my legs, which seem a little sore and heavy. I'll stay here tonight. Tomorrow lots of miles through the Ozarks on lots of hills. Also wanted to find a way to post the pictures I've taken along the way.

Thanks to Judy Carpenter and Harold Smith of the local radio station across the way, I've found a friend in Matt, the young fellow in the computer repair shop. He let me sit at his desk for the past 3 hours and post the pictures. Thanks so much Matt!!



Crossing the Mississippi into Missouri this morning in the rain. A nice wide 8' sholder on the side of the highway made this very safe. Just wet!



The "Official" fence that Tom Sawyer had his friends paint. There are several more around here that are unofficial.



Remember this hotel, Matt Colvin? We stayed here several years ago on our own journey of discovery. My home tonight.

There's supposed to be an art fair down here in old Hannibal and it looks like a good place to dry out from the rain and hang out for the rest of the day. Long day tomorrow and don't know when I'll find another place to upload pictures. Thank you again, Matt Clark of Aloha Technologies for your courtesy.

One last thing. For those of you who noticed I was going from Muscatine back to Davenport, the corrections have been made : > )

Yea! I Found A Friend - Matt - in Hannibal Who Let Me Download Pictures

Pictures are worth a thousand words....finally!



At the start, ready to go, I think!



Carla God Bless her. Asking the question of her husband, "Tell me one more time why you need to do this?" Finding no satisfactory answer again, she left me in Muscatine and drove home...



Harley For Sale. Just 10 miles into the ride, before I've even gotten tired, this temptation! I passed it by, since wondered why!



I'll just throw this picture up from time to time to remind you what the scenery looks like when its sort of flat.



My first night on the road, courtesy of Mr. and Mrs. Norman Frank and their son Cory.
The tent stayed dry and I was comfortable as I listened to thunder later that evening.



Just down from the Frank farm, early in the morning on the way to Burlington. This Kingston not like Matt's!



Just down the road from Kingston, not what you want to see!!!



No matter how long I stood there and wished for a way across the river, it still left me standing in the mud unable to get to the other side and expletive deleted!



Near the end of a long day, when I was really looking for a cold drink, Oaksville! The post office was closed, the Dairy Queen was long ago out of business and the only convenience store in town had recently had a car go through its front window!



1st crossing of the Mississippi from Burlington to Illinois. You want me to go across there on my bike?



The Mormon Temple in Nauvoo. Prime Real Estate.



This sign, across the street from the Mormon Temple. Go get 'em, catholics!



Just south of Nauvoo along the Mississippi River. You cannot get closer than this!



Hard to get the true feeling of this hill. There were to be 20 of these yesterday between Nauvoo and Quincy.



No Dairy Queens nor Walgreen. No Shell Oil or BP. But all along these back country roads, Casey's is ready to serve.



Something else you don't want to see on a bike. They call them "Rollers". They do!



"You want me to build this house 10' off the ground? What'r you thinking of??
Flooding on the road into Quincy.



Great view from the riverfront in Quincy. My dinner last night just next door!